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Okay, so the thing is, I’d never even heard of American Apparel until this edition of the Netflix documentary series Trainwreck. If you’re a non-American viewer like me, it’s a clothing retailer that became widely popular for its “sexy, cool” ad campaigns and was one of the fastest-growing companies in the U.S. in 2005. ‘Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel‘ focuses on how founder Dov Charney charmed new employees, got them to work overtime, and eventually turned into a boss from hell.
Featuring several interviews with former American Apparel employees, most of whom started at the bottom and rose to high positions, the documentary shows how many recall joining the company while very young. Unlike traditional firms, Dov Charney and American Apparel did not bother with résumés, interviews, or any of the other tedious hiring formalities. Instead, most employees were simply hired if they had a certain “look” or passed the “vibe check” for the company.
American Apparel’s USP lay in its simple, hip clothing paired with an outrageously sexy ad campaign featuring provocative photos of everyday young people rather than professional models. This was backed by the promise of ethically made, 100% American-manufactured apparel, not outsourced to exploitative sweatshops. While the media criticized the company for its near-pornographic ads and high manufacturing costs, the brand was simultaneously soaring in popularity among consumers.
On the surface, American Apparel seemed like a great success story, but when the recession hit, both the company and Dov Charney came crashing down. While the documentary doesn’t entirely justify the use of the evocative word “cult” in its title (Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel), former employees do admit to being swept up by Dov’s magnetic personality, describing a workplace that felt more like his personal clique of minions.
Fifty-four minutes long, the documentary is a fast-paced look at the dark side of fashion apparel and what happens behind the scenes. What works best for this ‘Trainwreck’ edition is the fact that creators have access to several video tapes featuring an unhinged Dov Charney caught on camera screaming and swearing at his employees. There’s no dearth of photos, videos to emboss over the interviews, although, in the last few minutes, the documentary features voice-actors recalling some damning testimonies by former employees who were abused by Dov.
Just like ‘Trainwreck: The Astroworld Tragedy’, this coverage of American Apparel misses the opportunity to take a more investigative approach, opting instead for an emotionally driven narrative. Regardless, it’s an interesting look at the power dynamics, manipulation, and abuse of authority by the founder of a once hugely successful company.
Watch ‘Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel‘ on Netflix.
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